Yongnuo YN-465 Speedlite

I really like how the dial works.

A lot of friends ask me for advice when it comes to camera gear. I have been looking for some reasonably priced speedlights that I can recommend. After spending a small fortune on a body and lens, it is hard to fork out the $$ for stuff like flashes, memory cards, etc.

I did a little reading about Yongnuo speedlites. I thought I would give one a shot. I ordered the YN-465 from ebay for $65. This was the most affordable flash that claimed TTL AND manual controls. Note: I order the Nikon version of this flash.

While I more often use my flashes in manual mode, it is great to be able to throw a flash on top of my camera and forget about settings, by putting it into Automatic/TTL mode. 

I had high hopes for the Yongnuo YN465. My biggest concern was: does it really work in TTL mode?

Click to read the rest.

Nikon SB-28 Flash (speedlight) Foot Shoe repair

Got a deal on a Nikon SB-28 speedlight. I bought some photography junk, and this was in the bag. The flash works fine, but the foot was broken. The original user glued it back together. I didn't trust my new flash to another person's sketchy glue job. I decided to replace the Nikon sb-28 foot. 

The foot cost about $3.00 from nikon plus another few dollars for shipping. I see replacement parts on ebay all the time. But I really like to order from Nikon: it is usually cheaper, and I know I am getting Nikon quality parts. (I also asked about an LCD for a Coolpix point and shoot, and they quoted me $45, and ebay has the same part for $25 - go figure).

When calling, be ready to tell them what color the metal ground connectors are on the side of your foot. Apparently there are two different kinds of feet for different SB-28 designs. I wrote down the serial number from my flash, and called during lunch at work. The serial number wouldn't do it, I had to know the color of the metal on sides of the foot (silver vs. bronze?). For information on the phone numbers and address, check the comments in my SB-600 post. I called the same place.

The shoe arrived yesterday, and today I swapped out the old for the new. If you have a small phillips screwdriver you can probably do it in 15 minutes. Here it is:

(Click to read the steps and see the pictures after the jump).

Coco Ring Flash Adapter: Ray Flash knock-off.

I wanted a ring flash. I like David Hobby's recent use of the Orbis Ring Flash as a fill flash. However, I am not a full time photographer, and don't have unlimited funds, so I decided to check out the Coco Ring Flash Adapter (sorry Hobby. I hate shopping at Wal-Mart too, but I can't afford not to).

Here is my unscientific review of the Coco Ring Flash.


Get more pictures and the whole review after the jump...

A guy, his family, and a Honda Odyssey

Friday was the deadline to enter a photograph in a local art show/competition. I found a couple of photos that I had taken during the last year that I would probably enter. But, I wanted to use the festival to challenge me to set up a shot I hadn't taken before. I have a bunch of ideas of images I want to shoot. This was the first of those photos to go from abstract idea to actual photo.

THE INSPIRATION
My aunt who is studying photography took some awesome portraits of her family and friends. She did a great job of capturing people in their elements. She turned me on to some images taken by Tina Barney. I am not necessarily a fan of all of Barney's images, but I like what she is trying to do with her photos. I hope my aunt posts her shots because they are on a whole other level. I tried to channel a little Tina Barney and A. Livingstone in the creation of my image.

I wanted to photograph people in their element; take a shot that told a story. I am not sure that I did that, but I think the photo is at least fun to look at.

I am going to save the set up and technical elements about the photograph for a later blog post. I took a few shots of the set up, and will post those too. Except for a little desaturation, this is pretty close to how the image came out of the camera.

Nikon D70 DSLR Flash Fix

I picked up a couple of Nikon D70 bodies on craigslist this week. I got them home and found out the built-in flash wouldn’t fire. I was pretty frustrated by the situation. The D70 can remotely fire a Nikon flash with CLS, but not if the flash doesn’t work. The seller who sold me the cameras didn’t know that the flashes didn’t work. Really, I have no reason not to believe her.

After surfing the web, I found that there is a group of D70 users who have had their built-in flashes go out. I read over at photo.net about a guy named Tony Evans who fixed his flash. As a result, I don’t take credit for discovering this fix, but I tried to document my fix.

Sold my macro lens. These are the best picts I’ve got.

1: Remove the screws that hold on the cover of the built in flash (pic 1). Note that the screws actually screw in/out at an angle (pic 1 b).

See the rest after the jump.

DIY Radiopoppers RPcube

While I love the Nikon CLS system, I find that it can be problematic at times. The flashes aren't always able to "see" each other. I decided to go with radio triggers. I started with gadget infinity triggers; then I graduated to pocketwizards. However, when Radiopoppers announced their JrX line of triggers and receivers and the potential to adjust the level of flash output, I decided to give them a try. Unfortunately, the JrXs require the not yet released "RP Cube" to adjust the flash output. With how long it takes Radiopoppers to release their products, I chose not to hold by breath.

I decided to build my own RP Cube.

I ordered a couple of Nikon AS-900 cords from BH Photo. The cost around $10 each. I chose these cords because I have an SB-800, SB-600, and an older Vivitar flash that supports (maybe) Nikon TTL (an older version). As a result, I cut it, and used the hot shoe for the SB-600, and the female three prong side for the SB-800.

More info can be found here in the strobist forums on Flickr

It is pretty cool to wirelessly control the power of my strobes. Another reason I went with the radiopoppers is that the ability to control my alienbees is built into the JrXs without modification. Here are some non-scientfic shots of me wirelessly adjusting the flash in my kitchen. Note that there are two flashes in the picture. However, the SB-800 is turned off and is not firing. These images include just the SB-600 firing from the DIY RPcube hot shoe.

Downtown Phoenix at Night

This is downtown Phoenix at on Friday night. This is Phoenix City Hall. This shot was taken close to midnight. Pirates had just downed the Diamondbacks. Regardless, there were fireworks above the ballpark. Have a few more shots from that evening over at my smugmug HDR gallery.

Read Hot Shoe Diaries and other cool books online

UPDATE: Scott Kelby's latest book: The Digital Photography Book, Vol. 3 is up at Safari Online. Hey it just came out - that was fast.

Okay, so only four people "read" my blog. My wife, my aunt, and... I read it. Okay, so only three people "read" my blog. Maybe it will catch on before 2039.

Read more after the jump...

Wedding Shoot

Summer has gotten busy! My cousin was married last week. She asked me to help take wedding photos. I really enjoyed it. I worked my butt off. We got some great shots. More photos can be viewed from my smugmug galleries (link on the upper right hand area of this blog page). I am still in the process of reviewing and uploading reception shots. Image shot at 1/20 s, f/2.5, ISO 500, Nikon D90 with a 50mm f/1.4 lens (I borrowed the lens from my friend Matt). I had two Nikon SB-600s mounted to a monopod, and shot through an umbrella. I was firing the strobes using commander mode on the D90. However, I was manually controlling the flash power, and don't remember the exact flash setting.

DIY Nikon SB-600 speedlight Flash Tube replacement

In a previous post I mentioned that one of my kids knocked over a light stand with an sb-600 attached. Well, I ordered the $8.52 USD flash tube from Nikon for the sb-600 speedlight, and did it myself last night. Works fine.


Things you need:
- 1 Nikon SB-600 Speedlight with a broken flash tube.
- Small philips screw driver (the small screwdriver set at the dollar store is fine).
- Soldering iron and solder (a solder sucker came in handy - borrowed it from a friend - thanks Matt).
- Replacement bulb (obviously): Part number: XE701 BTW (not required when phoning Nikon).

Optional:
- A way to drain the power from the capacitor/thingy that stores the energy to allow for a high powered flash.
- Small flat head screwdriver.

Prep: I didn't actively drain the power from the flash before I began working. After my flash broke, I could see that the tube was snapped in half. I removed the batteries. It sat without batteries for about three weeks. When I touched inside wires, I felt some power still in the flash, but never got zapped (though I have been zapped before while working on flashes).



Step 1. Place the flash bottom up and remove the two long screws at the end of the flash head.

Step 2. Pry off the rubber "Push" button on the hinge that allows for the head to be manipulated. There is also a spring underneath. I used a small flathead screw driver, but anything would have worked. It came off easily. Then unscrew the four screws underneath.

Step 3. Remove the cover on the opposite side of the hinge. Underneath the rubber cover is a very thin black adhesive film. Remove the film to expose the screws. Don't worry about tearing the film. Remove the four screws.

The bottom of the flash head should then easily be removed exposing the internal electronics. Notice the four small copper prongs that protrude from the bottom of the flash tube assembly. These prongs rub along the circuit board, and control the head's zoom. Try not to bend them, and definitely don't break them off. Make sure to check that they contact the board before reassembling.



Step 4. (optional). Drain the power so you won't get shocked. Here are some ways you may want to do it:
http://camerarepair.blogspot.com/2007/11/important-warning-camera-flash.html



Step 5. Four screws hold the zoom motor to the flash head. It is best to remove these screws to allow easier access to the solder points. However, eight screws are visible(ish), and only four need to be removed. Remove the two black ones on the far side opposite the pcb/circuit board. The other two screws to be removed run along the metal post on which the flash bulb assembly slides. The bulb assembly may actually obscure the one of the screws. The bulb assembly can gently be slid out of the way. The silver screws hold a pcb board to the flash head and don't need to be removed. The other row of screws (in between the two rows we are removing) can also stay in place.

Once the screws are removed, the only thing holding the bulb unit to the flash body are wires. Remove the wires from the clip to get more working distance between the board and the flash tube assembly.

Step 6. Remove the solder from the flash tube. The flash tube is solder at three points. One on each end, and a white wire that is also attached to the bulb. If you have a replacement bulb, it should be obvious the points that you need to desolder. Note: there is a second white wire that will also become desoldered; it joins the white wire from the bulb, at the same solder point.

Step 7. A transparent "rubber band" holds the bulb in the flash tube assembly and will need to be removed. I recommend removing the side with the white wire first, because on that side there is a slit in the rubber band to facilitate removal. Take note of which way the ends of the rubber band are facing in order to replace it the same way.


Step 8. Remove the tube. Kind of a pain, but it comes out.

Step 9. Slide the new bulb in and resolder. This is the simplest step, but this took me the longest. I preferred to solder the end without the white wire first. My rationale was that because there is a slit in the other side (the side with the white wire) of the rubber band, it will go on easier. Who knows? Also, my solder skills are lacking, so if I can do it, so can you.

Step 10. Put it back together.
A couple of things to remember: make sure that the copper prongs mentioned in step 3 are contacting the circuit board, you may want to check them out before replacing the screws that hold the flash tube assembly to the flash head. Also, make sure that the wires connecting the tube assembly to the flash are tucked way back. I put my flash back together, and it worked fine, accept for the 85mm zoom. The tube assembly was bumping the wires, and couldn't zoom all the way back. I had to reopen, and tuck the wires out of the way.

While I didn't try to break any components, I wasn't particularly gentile. The flash head seemed pretty durable, and moderately simple. If you can grow a third hand before beginning this project, it would be helpful.

Happy soldering!