DIY Radiopoppers RPcube

While I love the Nikon CLS system, I find that it can be problematic at times. The flashes aren't always able to "see" each other. I decided to go with radio triggers. I started with gadget infinity triggers; then I graduated to pocketwizards. However, when Radiopoppers announced their JrX line of triggers and receivers and the potential to adjust the level of flash output, I decided to give them a try. Unfortunately, the JrXs require the not yet released "RP Cube" to adjust the flash output. With how long it takes Radiopoppers to release their products, I chose not to hold by breath.

I decided to build my own RP Cube.

I ordered a couple of Nikon AS-900 cords from BH Photo. The cost around $10 each. I chose these cords because I have an SB-800, SB-600, and an older Vivitar flash that supports (maybe) Nikon TTL (an older version). As a result, I cut it, and used the hot shoe for the SB-600, and the female three prong side for the SB-800.

More info can be found here in the strobist forums on Flickr

It is pretty cool to wirelessly control the power of my strobes. Another reason I went with the radiopoppers is that the ability to control my alienbees is built into the JrXs without modification. Here are some non-scientfic shots of me wirelessly adjusting the flash in my kitchen. Note that there are two flashes in the picture. However, the SB-800 is turned off and is not firing. These images include just the SB-600 firing from the DIY RPcube hot shoe.

Downtown Phoenix at Night

This is downtown Phoenix at on Friday night. This is Phoenix City Hall. This shot was taken close to midnight. Pirates had just downed the Diamondbacks. Regardless, there were fireworks above the ballpark. Have a few more shots from that evening over at my smugmug HDR gallery.

Read Hot Shoe Diaries and other cool books online

UPDATE: Scott Kelby's latest book: The Digital Photography Book, Vol. 3 is up at Safari Online. Hey it just came out - that was fast.

Okay, so only four people "read" my blog. My wife, my aunt, and... I read it. Okay, so only three people "read" my blog. Maybe it will catch on before 2039.

Read more after the jump...

Wedding Shoot

Summer has gotten busy! My cousin was married last week. She asked me to help take wedding photos. I really enjoyed it. I worked my butt off. We got some great shots. More photos can be viewed from my smugmug galleries (link on the upper right hand area of this blog page). I am still in the process of reviewing and uploading reception shots. Image shot at 1/20 s, f/2.5, ISO 500, Nikon D90 with a 50mm f/1.4 lens (I borrowed the lens from my friend Matt). I had two Nikon SB-600s mounted to a monopod, and shot through an umbrella. I was firing the strobes using commander mode on the D90. However, I was manually controlling the flash power, and don't remember the exact flash setting.

DIY Nikon SB-600 speedlight Flash Tube replacement

In a previous post I mentioned that one of my kids knocked over a light stand with an sb-600 attached. Well, I ordered the $8.52 USD flash tube from Nikon for the sb-600 speedlight, and did it myself last night. Works fine.


Things you need:
- 1 Nikon SB-600 Speedlight with a broken flash tube.
- Small philips screw driver (the small screwdriver set at the dollar store is fine).
- Soldering iron and solder (a solder sucker came in handy - borrowed it from a friend - thanks Matt).
- Replacement bulb (obviously): Part number: XE701 BTW (not required when phoning Nikon).

Optional:
- A way to drain the power from the capacitor/thingy that stores the energy to allow for a high powered flash.
- Small flat head screwdriver.

Prep: I didn't actively drain the power from the flash before I began working. After my flash broke, I could see that the tube was snapped in half. I removed the batteries. It sat without batteries for about three weeks. When I touched inside wires, I felt some power still in the flash, but never got zapped (though I have been zapped before while working on flashes).



Step 1. Place the flash bottom up and remove the two long screws at the end of the flash head.

Step 2. Pry off the rubber "Push" button on the hinge that allows for the head to be manipulated. There is also a spring underneath. I used a small flathead screw driver, but anything would have worked. It came off easily. Then unscrew the four screws underneath.

Step 3. Remove the cover on the opposite side of the hinge. Underneath the rubber cover is a very thin black adhesive film. Remove the film to expose the screws. Don't worry about tearing the film. Remove the four screws.

The bottom of the flash head should then easily be removed exposing the internal electronics. Notice the four small copper prongs that protrude from the bottom of the flash tube assembly. These prongs rub along the circuit board, and control the head's zoom. Try not to bend them, and definitely don't break them off. Make sure to check that they contact the board before reassembling.



Step 4. (optional). Drain the power so you won't get shocked. Here are some ways you may want to do it:
http://camerarepair.blogspot.com/2007/11/important-warning-camera-flash.html



Step 5. Four screws hold the zoom motor to the flash head. It is best to remove these screws to allow easier access to the solder points. However, eight screws are visible(ish), and only four need to be removed. Remove the two black ones on the far side opposite the pcb/circuit board. The other two screws to be removed run along the metal post on which the flash bulb assembly slides. The bulb assembly may actually obscure the one of the screws. The bulb assembly can gently be slid out of the way. The silver screws hold a pcb board to the flash head and don't need to be removed. The other row of screws (in between the two rows we are removing) can also stay in place.

Once the screws are removed, the only thing holding the bulb unit to the flash body are wires. Remove the wires from the clip to get more working distance between the board and the flash tube assembly.

Step 6. Remove the solder from the flash tube. The flash tube is solder at three points. One on each end, and a white wire that is also attached to the bulb. If you have a replacement bulb, it should be obvious the points that you need to desolder. Note: there is a second white wire that will also become desoldered; it joins the white wire from the bulb, at the same solder point.

Step 7. A transparent "rubber band" holds the bulb in the flash tube assembly and will need to be removed. I recommend removing the side with the white wire first, because on that side there is a slit in the rubber band to facilitate removal. Take note of which way the ends of the rubber band are facing in order to replace it the same way.


Step 8. Remove the tube. Kind of a pain, but it comes out.

Step 9. Slide the new bulb in and resolder. This is the simplest step, but this took me the longest. I preferred to solder the end without the white wire first. My rationale was that because there is a slit in the other side (the side with the white wire) of the rubber band, it will go on easier. Who knows? Also, my solder skills are lacking, so if I can do it, so can you.

Step 10. Put it back together.
A couple of things to remember: make sure that the copper prongs mentioned in step 3 are contacting the circuit board, you may want to check them out before replacing the screws that hold the flash tube assembly to the flash head. Also, make sure that the wires connecting the tube assembly to the flash are tucked way back. I put my flash back together, and it worked fine, accept for the 85mm zoom. The tube assembly was bumping the wires, and couldn't zoom all the way back. I had to reopen, and tuck the wires out of the way.

While I didn't try to break any components, I wasn't particularly gentile. The flash head seemed pretty durable, and moderately simple. If you can grow a third hand before beginning this project, it would be helpful.

Happy soldering!

Thanks Matt for getting me out of the house to shoot some photos.

My friend Matt has been wanting to do a few night time HDR shots of certain building he and I saw a month or two ago. Here is my version of the building. It is near Deer Valley Airport in a business park just off of 19th Ave. Matt took some great shots. I took three photos, and this is the one I liked most. It is an HDR shot with exposures taken at 510 (8:30), 256 (4:16), 128 (2:08), 64, 30, 15, and 8 seconds. I am glad Matt got me out, and got me home when my voice started getting raspy.

On an unrelated note, I hope to soon a post on replacing the bulb in a Nikon SB-600 speedlight. I had the strobe on a light stand when my 1 year old knocked it over, and it landed bulb side down on the tile in the dining room. ARRGGHH. The zoom feature works, and I can easilty see the broken bulb through the clear plastic. Nikon's part dept. was closed 5 minutes before their scheduled closing time :p by the time I tried to order the part.

The bulb is on ebay for $29 + shipping but I hear that they are cheaper from Nikon. I have my soldering iron ready (three solder points), I just hope I can save it. It is on life support, and I hope it doesn't die on the operating table (my soldering is pretty bad).

Note: I am not a big fan of the "fakey/surreal" looking HDR photos, though they do have their place. If you look at this photo at full size. It looks more realistic.

Tiffany

Shot this photo of my sister-in-law in the garage. Two lights: an SB800 gelled blue shooting on a white background, and an Alienbees 800 with a large softbox camera right. I would have liked a little more distance between the subject and the background, but this was in my garage. Oh well. Then did about 3 minutes of post in Photoshop, just a quick high pass filter set to 75%ish opacity, vignetting, and desaturated just a tad.

Arnon, good luck on getting your black chair back. I love it.

Black chair on the hill

Tessa always does a good job of helping me compose photos. Borrowed a black leather chair from the Livingstone house, and went up to a little hill not far from home. The chair turned out to be a lot heavier than it looked. Shooting through an umbrella, I think I would have preferred a softbox to control the light fall-off a little more. But I don't mind a little illumination on the immediate surroundings.

dumped

My aunt was given the assignment of using strobes to take portraits. She decided to do a series of "dumped" photos. Here is one of the shots. We did it in my garage (I think it may have been a ploy to keep her own garage clean). Check them out here.

Three Alienbees total. Two on the sides and slightly above with 7inch reflectors (come standard with the strobes), and one alienbees shot into silver umbrella as the key light. We tried an sb-800 on the floor shooting at the background for a few shots. It was set to fire with the built in optical trigger. With the exception of two sb-600s, we used all my light.

We were able to shoot between 3.5 frames per second and 4.5 frames per second. The alienbees did a good job of keeping up, but a little power was lost. The first frame of each burst was noticeably lighter than the following.

Here are a couple of the setup shots. The shots are from our second sitting. As result, we managed to keep the mess somewhat under control. The chair front and left is where I stood to pour the food product on the poor recipient.

Before:

After:

Dance on white wall with butcher paper floor

I help out with the photography club at the high school. We started out with 30+ participants, and we are down to about 4-6 regulars. Which, to be honest, is on par with how most of the clubs at the school work. I dragged three Alienbees (800 x2 and 400) to school, and set them up in the teacher's work room. We laid some white butcher paper on the floor and went to town. 6.5 foot ceilings? Not recommended for shooting dance. Oh well, that is what we had, and it was a good learning experience for all involved. Thanks Sarah and Chris for being our guinea pigs.